The age old debate surfer have with themselves.
Do you go in after a good wave?
or
Do you go in after a bad wave?
I don't really think it ranks up there with the age old Zen classics like “What's the sound of one hand clapping?” or even “What was your original face before you were born?”.
But every surfer has had to answer the riddle was that last wave good enough to be “my last wave”?
Too good a wave and you have topped off your stoke reserve and want to immediately paddle out and get another one.
Too funky of a wave and you think “I don't want that one to be my last one” let me go out and get one more.
So, as they say, the search continues.
For a wave,
not too good
but
not too bad
Like a surfing version of Goldilock's dilemma
Looking for a wave
That's just right
To go in.
So very true.
ReplyDeletehey guys. Sorry if my comment doesn't have nothing to do with this post, but I'd like to read you on a life long surf debate : hassle and surf rage.
ReplyDeleteIf you feel like it of course.
take care.
In or out, the sea decides for me.
ReplyDeleteThese days, if I get a wave with a disproportionate stoke value to the conditions, that's when I get out.
ReplyDeleteAn example would be 6/10 surf and getting a 9/10 ride. I get out stoked. I've ended sessions after 30 mins but been stoked for days.
I am a sucker for getting one more if my planned last wave is a shocker... Man I've been late for some important stuff in my time!
Cheers
G
PS My first look at this blog. Tis very good.
The date seems a bit out though!
ReplyDelete:D
G
ahhh the last wave in... I always try to take a good wave in but then I paddle back out for more.. just one more.. and then another... I end up having five last waves... I try not to be too greedy, but the ocean keeps calling me back....
ReplyDelete